Behind the scenes in Provence

The Green Fairy

Absinthe is making a come-back. The anise flavoured spirit derived from herbs, including wormwood, was banned in France in 1914. It had been portrayed as a dangerously addictive hallucinogen because of the presence of the chemical thujone. A revival of absinthe began in the late 1990s and today there are several dozen brands manufacturing and selling in France.

When in Provence do visit the Liquoristerie de Provence www.liquoristerie-provence.fr in Venelles. Owner Pascal Rolland has been leading the revival of the product re-introducing not only the distilled spirit but a fragrance as well: Absolute Absinthe www.absolument.net

To serve the spirit a sugar cube is balanced on a slotted spoon and ice cold water is poured on top which melts the sugar and dilutes the shot of absinthe already in the glass  Elaborate absinthe fountains (like the one featured in the photo supplied by Pascal Rolland above) were designed. The fountain not only speeds up the serving process but creates an atmosphere or a kind of ritual around the cocktail hour known as the “exquisite hour”. Adding water renders the once transparent liquid into a cloudy beverage (just like pastis). Absinthe is commonly referred to as "la fée verte" or “the Green Fairy”.

Vincent van Gogh, Oscar Wilde, Toulouse-Lautrec and Ernest Hemingway to name but a few, were fans. Today the aura of illicitness prevails and modern day artists like Marilyn Manson are manufacturing their own brands – go to www.mansinthe.com

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Legio Patria Nostra

The French Foreign Legion recruiting office happens to be down the road in Aubagne, just east of Marseilles. Young men from around the world can be seen lining up with their duffle bags in the morning in hopes of making the cut. If you’re a man between the ages of 17 and 40 and in incredible physical condition you can give it a go. Keep in mind your first mission is for 5 years. Today there are just about 7700 Legionnaires from over 146 countries serving France. http://french-foreign-legion.com

The recruiting office and training ground is also home to the Museum of the French Foreign Legion and it can be visited year round. This is where I made the most unexpected discovery; Cole Porter and Nicolas de Stael are both Legionnaires. Go to www.legion-recrute.com and then click on musee for information on the Museum.

Founded by the French Army in 1831 for foreign nationals wanting to fight for France, the Foreign Legion has always been known as the military elite. Their uniforms include green and red epaulettes and the famous white képi. Their logo is the flaming grenade. These soldiers whose hallmark is bravery refer to the Legion as their fatherland.

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