Behind the Scenes in Provence

Provence Confidential has been blogging about restaurant launches, cooking classes, food festivals, Provençal wines and spirits as well as tradition and folklore since 2008.

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European Heritage Days

Over 17000 monuments in France will be open to the public in the 32nd edition of European Heritage Day know in French as Les Journées du Patrimoine on Sept 19-20th.  Museums and churches will provide guided tours (in French) but private estates, remarkable gardens and private chateaux will also open exceptionally on these two days - for a small fee.

The complete programme is available on the Ministry of Culture and Culture website HERE. There are 6 pdf files for each of the 6 departments of the Provence Alpes Cote d’Azur (PACA) region (Alpes de Hautes Provence, Alpes Maritimes, Bouches du Rhone, Hautes Alpes, Var, Vaucluse) that you can download to select your destinations ahead of time.

My top 2 recommendations are for garden lovers:

Bastide de Romegas – located just outside of Aix-en-Provence (Bouches du Rhone) is set in a pine forest with beautiful bassins and fountains all framed by boxwood and roses. Lovely wells and a tiny chapel are also on the pristine grounds. Bastide de Romegas, 3992 Chemin St. Donnat, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, Open 10am-1pm and 3pm-6pm, 4 euros per person.

Domaine de Rayol – located in Rayol Canadel sur Mer (Var) – is a stunning garden overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. The garden features varieties from all over the Mediterraen bassin as well as regions that have similar climates. You’ll see plants and flowers from the Canary Islands, California, Australia, South Africa and Chile that thrive in this location.  Domaine de Rayol, Avenue des Belges, 83820 Rayol sur Mer, Tel : 04 98 04 44 00, www.domainedurayol.org 1 euro per person.

 

 

Les Vendanges Etoilées

The 6th annual “Les Vendanges étoilées” (Harvest of the stars) takes place from September 26-27, 2015. It is a celebration between the public, Chefs of renowned restaurants and Cassis winemakers. 

Twenty seven French chefs are attending the event with a total of 14 Michelin stars. Included among them are 3 exceptional local chefs:

Lionel Levy - L’Alcyone* Intercontinental. Training with world class chefs like Eric Fréchon and Alain Ducasse he settled in Marseille in 1999 where he perfected regional cuisine which earned him his first Michelin star in 2005. Now he is at the helm of the recently refurbished Intercontinental Marseille Hotel-Dieu restaurants. 

Ludovic Turac- Une Table au Sud*. After training in Paris at the Bristol and Guy Savoy, this 27 year old Marseille native returned to his home town and earned a Michelin star making him the youngest of all Michelin Star chefs in 2015. 

Dimitri Droisneau - Villa Madie**. Originally from Normandy he worked at some of the best restaurants in Paris including La Tour d’Argent, Lucas Carton and L’Ambroisie before heading south to La Réserve de Beaulieu in the Cote d’Azur. He then took over La Villa Madie, that overlooks the sea and the Cap Canaille in Cassis, where he earned his second Michelin star in 2014.

You can sign up for the cocktail buffet (Stars & Chefs) on Saturday September 26th at 7:30 pm that will be served under a marquee on the terrace of the Oustau Calendal, overlooking the port of Cassis. It’s the perfect opportunity to taste the best Provence has to offer prepared by renowned chefs and paired with the world-class wines of Cassis. Price per person: € 60 including wine.Sign up

Fairways and Greens in Provence

The fall in the South of France is the ideal season for golf. There are over 40 golf courses to select from so I decided to help narrow the search by visiting and selecting three of the finest courses on offer that also provided accommodations and cuisine true to Provence. 

The Domaine de Manville, set in Les Baux de Provence, is an exquiste country estate with 30 rooms and 9 villas.  This eco-responsible 18-Hole course was designed to blend in with the landscape of olive groves, wild oak and majestical Cyprus trees. The Domaine also offers 5 star luxury hotel accommodations in the beautifully refurbished farm conversion with exceptional landscaping and the best of Provencal tradition.  domainedemanville.

Les Domaines de St. Endreol,  located half way between Aix-en-Provence and Monaco, has a spectacular sun-drenched 18-hole course of international renown. It has splendid views and varied landscapes that is perfect for all levels of play. The Domaine also offers a large choice of accommodation for 1 night or longer in this hidden oasis. st-endreol

The Dolce Fregate Golf Club overlooks the Mediterranean Sea in Saint Cyr sur Mer, between Marseille and Toulon. The resort offers a selection of accommodations from hotel rooms and suites to entire residences. The restaurants onsite offer great Provencal cuisine and exceptional regional wines from Bandol. dolcefregate

 

 

 

Musée d'Orsay and Paris in the 19th Century

After my invitation to review the Cezanne tour in Aix, I was offered yet another brillant tour by Context Travel. There were 3 of us on the tour. It is such a luxury to have small groups. We met our docent, Lorraine, a former student of The Louvre School who completed her Masters at Columbia University before working at the Guggenheim, across the street from the Musée D’Orsay. 

It was from this vantage point that our docent began the visit by giving us the history behind this train station built at the same time as the Eiffel Tour, using similar materials,  for the World’s Fair in 1900. The station provided rail service to Orléans for 39 years, stayed vacant for almost as many and became a musuem in  1986 with 19th and early 20th century collections.  The Gare d'Orsay also provided hotel accommodations and a restaurant for travellers. Luckily the restaurant located just behind one of the clocks is still open to the public as is a smaller cafeteria for those in more of a hurry. There is a spectacular view of the Right Bank if you look out from the clock.

Once inside we were introduced chronologically to the major art movements by showing us examples of both paintings and sculptures. We learned what the academics declared to be acceptable in the art world and the evolution of the various movements.

On our 3 hour tour we received in depth background into the Barbizon School and Realism to Impressionism and Post-Impressionism. We learned about the new techniques and subjects that strayed from what academics had previously decreed. We were given explanations and viewed works on Neo-impressionism, Fauvism, Pointillism and Cubism by painters who were influenced by earlier movements. This is the perfect tour to understand the major art movements in the evolution of French art. And of course for lovers of Provence the Musée D’Osray is home to some exquisite works by Cezanne.  

I'm not sure I can visit another city without taking a Context Travel tour - as the name implies the tour gives you the added details that make the difference between simply seeing and understanding and admiring even more.  www.contexttravel.com?ref=provenceconfidential

 

 

 

The Calisson Cure

During the 17th century calissons, diamond-shaped almond based sweets, were believed to have banished the plague from Aix-en-Provence. In keeping with tradition a special mass is held on the 1st Sunday of September at the Church of St. Jean de Malte for the benediction of the sweets. In 2015 the benediction will be held at 3 pm. 

Orginally made by hand these sweets are now manufactured on a large scale using molds and cutters. When in Aix do visit the newly built Calisson Roy René factory that houses the Museum of the Calisson. http://calisson.com/en/content/8-visit-of-the-confectionary

 

In the Shadow of Mont Sainte Victoire- Cezanne and Aix

I have been on many and even led tours of Aix-en-Provence but what a treat to have California born Pamela Morton, expert in all things Cezanne as our docent on this Context Travel walking tour. Pamela, a long-time resident of Aix, artist and senior lecturer of Painting and Drawing, met our 4 person group (ideal for asking questions) in front of the chapellerie -the French word for hat shop- that once belonged to Cezanne’s father on the Cours Mirabeau.  After some insight into his childhood, education -he attended law school before pursuing his true passion-and aspirations we then headed to the outskirts of town. 

Pamela guided us to the Terrain des Peintres, on aptly named rue Paul Cezanne. It was from this very location that Cezanne painted one of his favorite subjects -Mont Sainte Victoire- over 80 times.  A handful of his most famous works in poster form have been laminated and set up on metal pedestals so that we could see how he treated the subject that so fascinated him and find out which museum has the joy of owning these masterpieces today.

We then descended to Cezanne’s Studio, the refuge from which he painted many of his still lifes. Restored to perfection you can see the workshop as it was during his lifetime. The plaster cherub featured in Still Life with Cherub and the skulls seen in Pyramid of Skulls are items that are still in his studio along with earthenware pots, vases, carpets, his satchel, easel and ladder.

And then onto the Musée Granet in the Mazarin district of Aix-en-Provence to view some of his works by following a trail of brass studs imbedded into the sidewalk with the letter C for Cezanne that led us to his place of birth, his favorite café and his school. Viewing the architecture, the warm tones of the pink and yellow stone of the buildings, and our docent’s in-depth knowledge helped us understand how  influential both the landscape and the colours of Provence were to Cezanne’s work. 

This is a MUST DO tour on your next trip to Aix-en-Provence.  Book here www.contexttravel.com?ref=provenceconfidential 

 

 

In Pagnol's Footsteps

Marcel Pagnol, regarded as one of France’s greatest 20th century novelists and a pioneer in French cinema is being honoured in 2015 in and around Aubagne. His autobiographical works based on his childhood experiences are still featured on the mandatory reading lists of school children throughout France. French director Claude Berri’s 1986 adaptations of Jean de Florette and the sequel Manon des Sources, with exceptional performances by Yves Montand, Gerard Depardieu and Daniel Auteuil, received several BAFTA awards.

The breathtaking scenery of both those films are now part of a 3 separate walking tours organised by the Tourism Office of Aubagne. Walk in the footsteps of the young Marcel until September 15, 2015 by signing up at excursions-strolls

 

AixPression Microbrewery

A pression is a draft beer in French so you have probably guessed that Aix Pression is a beer made in Aix. Well close enough – it’s brewed in the town of Rognes, just north of Aix-en-Provence.

Steven Giroud was born into a family of winemakers and successfully convinced his parents that they could ferment beer just as well as wine. Beer being the beverage of choice for the younger generation his microbrewery launched 3 varieties in early 2015: the blonde, the white and the rosé. 

Available in most local wine shops in the Aix-en-Provence region and well worth a try. 

More on star chef Passédat

Obtaining a last minute reservation at Le Petit Nice may not be tat easy so why not plan a visit the MUCEM this summer? Gerald Passédat’s other restaurant La Table serves lunch (52 euros) or dinner (73 euros) al fresco with stunning views of the Marseille harbour until August 23rd. Dining moves back indoors after that date.

Passédat has a passion for the Mediterranean and the culinary treasures it has to offer. He even has his own fresh vegetable patch on the rooftop of the MUCUM overlooking Notre Dame de la Garde where legumes and herbs are harvested for the daily menu. 

If you want to learn more about his cuisine why not take part in one of his cooking classes. Small groups of no more than 10 people take part in either the 3 hour long gourmet class or the 1.5 hour market cuisine class. For those with a sweet tooth there is also a 2 hour pastry class. Have a look at http://www.passedat.cookingclass

 

La French - Connection

Gene Hackman’s performance in the 1971 Oscar winner film French Connection brought lots of attention to Marseille and shaped the city’s lingering unsavoury image – that is until you visit Marseille. 

A recent film starring another Oscar winner, La French, is based on real events as a local magistrate  played by Jean Dujardin, attempts to break up a heroin mob king in the 70’s.  Helen Van Kruyssen, wrote this review: http://52frenchfilms.org

 

 

Marseille Olympic contender 2024

France lost the bid for the 2012 Summer Games in Paris to London and the 2018 Winter Games in Annecy to Pyeongchang South Korea.  But France is intent on hosting them – perhaps in 2024.

Some of the applicant cities still in the race include: Rome, Hamburg, Paris, Budapest, Boston and Doha. If France does win the bid plans for the nautical portion of the games are to be hosted in Marseille the city that had previously been a contender for America’s Cup in 2007 but lost the bid to Valencia Spain. 

The climatic conditions of Marseille are ideal for sailing with over 200 days of sunshine a year and guaranteed wind – sometimes too much of it when the Mistral blows. Each year the port city already hosts dozens of sailing races including the Juris Cup and the Massila Cup. It’s also on the route for the annual Tour de France Sailing race that started in 1978. Couldn’t be a more perfect venue.